Anvil rebound check with a ball bearing, my old one failed hard
Last month I finally tested my grandfather's beat-up anvil with a 1-inch steel ball bearing and it barely bounced back an inch, so I dragged it to a shop in Lancaster for a proper look. Turns out the face was decarburized from years of being heated and beaten without care, which explains why my hammer blows felt dead no matter how hard I swung. Anyone else ever bother to check rebound on a used anvil before buying, or am I the only one who learned this the expensive way?