Why does nobody talk about seam allowance when they draft patterns?

I keep seeing people post these beautiful sketches but then they get stuck when they try to make the real thing. The big thing they miss is adding enough seam allowance from the start. I learned this the hard way after making a jacket last month that came out way too tight. I used a 3/8 inch allowance on the pattern but I needed a full 5/8 inch for the thick wool I picked. Now I always add the allowance based on the fabric weight before I cut anything. Has anyone else had a project get messed up because of this?

3 comments

3 Comments

pat_stone2mo ago

Oh man, that jacket story hits home. I did the exact same thing with a pair of canvas pants. The pattern had a tiny allowance and my machine just ate the thick fabric. Now I keep a little note pinned to my board that lists the allowance I need for different fabrics. It's not fancy, just stuff like "denim: 5/8" and "lining: 3/8". Saves me from having to guess every single time.

rowanhernandez2mo ago

Read a blog post that said @pat_stone's note trick is basically building muscle memory for your sewing machine.

xena_bailey182mo ago

My sewing teacher always said to just feel the fabric for seam allowance. After reading Pat's note trick, I tried writing down my settings for a week. My last three projects had way fewer puckered seams because I stopped guessing.